Madrid: Atocha Train Station and its Unique Greenhouse
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A tiny bit of what could pass for history
Atocha train station, née South Station, was inaugurated on February 9th 1851, the first railway station in the city of Madrid.
Its last expansion, under Rafael Moneo, was completed on 1992, the year when Spain hosted both the Olympics in Barcelona and Seville's Universal Exhibition. In fact, such expansion was to accommodate the fabulous and brand new high-speed train infrastructure, known as AVE, which takes travelers from Madrid to Seville in under 2.5 hours.
Today, the AVE reaches many other places, including Barcelona, and has become a serious competitor to planes. I hardly ever take the plane anymore to see the family, I really enjoy the comfort and convenience of the high speed train –no long ride to the airport, just walk down from home to the platforms, and no security nuisances, you can carry your water bottles up to the train, what do you know.
March 11, 2004
Atocha isn't known outside Madrid for any of its multiple historic milestones, such as soldiers being shipped from it to the oriental and south fronts during the civil war, however, but by the fatal terrorist attack that occurred under its roof on March 11th 2004, which left 192 dead people and over 1500 injured.
Sadly, one of my favorite places in Madrid, in the world, really, became a name in the circuit of terror. I'll never forget that day, I was there. What's more, it all blew up in platform 2, the one I take 3 or 4 days a week to go to work.
That deadly incident is engraved in my mind, but it never could put me off Atocha, it's still a place in my heart, maybe even more so after that terrible day.
The beauty of Atocha: The Greenhouse
One of a kind
The one-of-a-kind greenhouse within the old station premises is what makes Atocha so special and dear to me. When I say one-of-a-kind I'm not exaggerating, the immense greenhouse in the station is unique in the world, and if it isn't yet listed in the travel guides, it most certainly should be.
The part of the station where the greenhouse resides dates back to 1851, it was painstaking restored as part of the 1992 expansion and adapted to host a simply amazing urban jungle, including a pond with 22 species of fish and turtles. In the summer months, when the dry heat of Madrid seeps through the glass roof, hundreds of tiny sprinklers let off a sort of steam, not quite water, giving the place a genuine look of outdoors jungle.
This makes Atocha not simply a traveler's space, but also a haven to stop by and have a coffee, read a book, or simply enjoy the view in a very well kept tropical climate.
Botanic Wonders
The 4000 square meters (13,123 square feet) of green area host 7200 plants of 260 species from places like India, Australia, Asia o China among many others. Species are of two kinds, tropical and subtropical, and to make both happy and keep them in good health, temperature is kept between 22 and 24 Celsius degrees (71.6 to 75.2 Fahrenheit) and humidity between 60 and 70 percent.
Among all the plants, it seems the jewel of the crown is the Washingtonia, named after George Washington, the first president of the USA. It's the highest of all, it ranges from 30 to 40 meters. In the confines of the greenhouse, it almost reaches the glass roof and its been secured to the floor and roof to avoid potential injuries should it decide to topple down one day. It's in excellent health though, as most others, the only trials experienced by both plants and gardeners are the ever present dryness in Madrid and the multitude of souls that invade the sanctity of the jungle every day.
The Traveler's Tree
This huge banana tree welcomes anyone that decides to wander by the paths of the greenhouse jungle. It's known as the traveler's tree and a tradition says that if a visitor stops in front of it and wishes for something it will become true. Careful, there are a few banana trees in the midst, not all will do the trick, just the one at the head of the pack.
I'm lucky to live close by, lucky twice to commute through Atocha, and lucky three times to never ever forget to feel joy at crossing this space as often as I do. If you're ever in Madrid, don't miss Atocha.
Note: The photos used in this article aren't the best one can find featuring Atocha station at large and the greenhouse in particular, but they are all mine and it's what I'm sharing. I hope they still do the trick to convince you this is a wonderful space.
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I do so enjoy your pictorial hubs, Elena...ok, ok I'm being repetitive I know! :)
What a sight for sore eyes that greenhouse must be!
Wow, what a beauty! I had no idea there train stations with a greenhouse, what a gift! When I think train stations, I think NY where I commuted for decades to Midtown Manhattan, and NY sure can use some healing greenhouses in the stations.
I will repeat what Feline Phrophet is saying, I enjoy your pictorial hubs! :)
Hello all -- or maybe I should say "all aboard!" :-) Thanks for the visit!
Anthony, you are close by, I'll be posting a series of articles on Madrid so maybe that will tempt you for a weekend visit :-)
Feline and Violet - The greenhouse is indeed a sight for sore eyes, it's almost surreal, this huge green space in the middle of a train station!
Absolutely gorgeous. How soothing and peaceful a transition to any trip. I bet there's a lot of happy people coming and going from this station. (that is if you can forget the bombing) Lovely article. Beautiful photos.
What a beautiful train station ! Make me want to revisit Madrid ! Thank you.........
In New York we don't have greenhouses in train stations, however we do have a winter garden with beautiful palm trees in Financial Center. Prior Sep 11, the palm trees were tall and a tradion said if you touch a palm you will get a financial success. Now, new young palm trees replaced old ones, I am not sure that they work the same way :)
A rain forest in a train station! What a wonderful idea! And *your* photos are great! Snapped from the heart - the best kind. ;D
What a wonderful and beautiful station-- a real oasis. Gives me a bit of wanderlust. Thanks, Elena. This was a real treat
I'm, as usual, green with envy! Hahaha You are most kind for sharing the joys of your travels with us. :D
All aboard the afternoon train, I say :-) Thanks for the visit folks, and glad you like the greenhouse!
Frieda, it is very soothing, and it has the funny ability to bring smiles to people's faces, too. One can hardly help herself when faced this this wonder in a train station!
Wanderlust, maybe we'll just have to go and test the young palm trees' efficiency? :-) And by all means, do stop by Atocha if you return to Madrid.
Jama, long time no see! The rain forest in a station may even manage to overdo the PINK boulder in the parking lot! Laugh!
Robie, isn't it! I find it a privilege to commute through this space!
Cris, well this one is from my own town --- I could have titled the series "tourist in my own town". You'll be seeing more of Madrid soon!
I'll save up and buy me a camera and then you'll see! But first I have to buy a laptop. Darn! Okay a camera then a laptop! I'll think about the plane fare later! LOL :D
What a fabulous place. I bet it is even more stunning in the flesh, so to speak.
Cris, Mr A, sir, you've got your priorities confused, you gotta save for a place fare! The rest will present itself in the form of lending by a generous benefactor by the name of Elena ;-)
Hi Ethel, your "in the flesh" comment made me laugh, you're so right though, it's totaly stunning once you're close up and personal with the garden -- don't forget it's really big and tall, so yeah, in the flesh it causes an impression.
Hi Elena,
Great article,I lived in Madrid for over a year and loved Atocha.I have linked to this article in my things to in Madrid article.It's well worth a visit!!
Hi kev! Thanks for the visit, and cool that you were in Atocha, among all the other nice places that you describe in your article!
This reminds me of the parisian arcades of the 19th century. A beautiful throwback beyond the age of modern convenience. Thank you the visual trip.
I was just in Madrid last month and my wife and I stopped by Atocha. When I lived in Vallecas I would take the train from Madrid to Torrejon de Ardoz. The station is a thing of beauty now, with a wonderful place to stop, rest and enjoy life!
My brother in law and his wife took the AVE to Cordoba. His joke was that no sooner do you sit down than the train arrives at its destination.
Thanks for the great hub!
Cheers!
Chef Jeff
grillrepair, my pleasure, glad you liked it. I guess in a way the old station is like a huge, monumental arcade :-)
Chef Jeff, you brother in law is right about the AVE and Cordoba, it's a running joke around here, but whoever has used the AVE they know it's not so much of a joke as fact!
Very cool to know someone who's actually been in Atocha, cheers to that!
Really enjoyed this article for many reasons. Firstly, very sorry to learn you got caught up in the terrorist atrocity and hope youn don't have too many after effects.
Many years ago I visited Madrid with my husband and saw this wonderful greenhouse - but age and time screw the memory!!and I couldn't remember where it was except its beauty and fascination. Thanks for completing the jig-saw and can't wait to go back and see it again.
And finally talking of trains, am really wanting to take a substantial train journey on the AVE or other fast links to
who knows where..!! So your praise of the train was gratefully received.
Hi Moranna - No physical side effects from the bombs, but a lot of sorrow that I guess I'll always carry.
It's cool that you visited Atocha and the greenhouse, isn't it wonderful? :-)
AVE can be trusted to be super punctual, early even, as a 5 minute delay will grant you rights to request 30% of the ticket back, up to 15 min 50% of the ticket and over 15 min delay the full price of the ticket. Guess it works as motivation because it's never ever late!! :-) Well, exceptions may happen in case of floods or major disasters, but then it's not the company's fault :-)
It's very comfortable, too. You can bother with a First Class ticket if you want the royal treatment, but it really isn't necessary at all for perfect comfort.
What a delightful place in which to relax amidst the daily routine of commuting. When my husband and I spent some time in Madrid many years ago we did not have occasion to see Atocha Train Station but would certainly do so now after reading your delightful hub if we ever return there. Thanks!
Hi Peggy! I remember your wonderful hub about Prado and its joys :-) It's very close to Atocha, pity you didn't get to Atocha -- then again, the greenhouse is only there since 92', not sure it would have been visible when you visited that year. Well, you know where to go if you even come back :-)
Hi Elena, I took the train from Madrid to Merida about eleven years ago, but I don't remember seeing this greenhouse. It's fantastic. I shall definitely look out for it next time I come to Madrid.
Hi Amanda! Pity you missed it! I grant you, there's probably tons of Madrilians that don't even know this exists, as it's "off" the general commuting route. If you're going mid-, long-distance you've better chances to "stumble" upon it, but still, you need to take two steps off the station proper, so to speak.
Good news for you about Atocha: It's next door to Reina Sofia where Guernica sits, and three doors down from Padro museum! :-)
What a wonderful station. (it beats Reperbahn in Hamburg :) I've only been to Madrid once. If I go there I will definately visit the station. Great hub!
Hi Fresh Flower, I'm sure you would love it, here's to a new visit to Madrid! :-)
Hi Elena,
We were only in Madrid 3 days and one of those we took a day trip tour to Toledo...so obviously not much time. It was so generous of you to help me identify so many of the paintings...pictures I had taken at the Prado Museum. You were a great help! Believe me...if we ever go to Madrid again the Atocha Train station will be on our list of places to see.
When I think train stations, I think NY where I commuted for decades to Midtown Manhattan, and NY sure can use some healing greenhouses in the stations
Still, NYC Grand Central is a very pretty station, don't you think? :-) No greenhouse there, granted, but it's a sight for sore eyes, too, in my opinion! Thanks for visiting!
Beautiful station and a nice hub indeed.
Cheers, Albertttt!
Very beautiful . Thanks for sharing this info.
My pleasure, Artzy!
Elena, thanks for the spectacular tour. It inspired me to do a bit of research about the garden, but there are some questions I have that I couldn't find answers for. For example, who maintains the garden and the pond inhabitants? Is the garden used as a living classroom? Is there a catalog online that lists its specimens, or informs about its botanical and zoological care? You got me going!
Aren't these old rail sheds magnificent? I've seen maybe a dozen in my life, here and in Europe. Most, if not all, have been re-purposed, but I do remember rolling into and out of some of them as a child, being completely entranced by their magical glass ceilings.
Another wonderful "Elena Tour."
Hello, Sally! Sorry that I'm replying a bit late, I was off to escape this blasted winter!
So many questions you have. I'll find out for you when I'm a little bit over the jet lag. I've never heard of any online catalog, as in one that would be accessible to the public, but of course one must exist, so the trick would be finding out if it is accesible somehow. As I said, I'll try and find out... or my research assistent (AHEM) will, as we all know I'm a lousy researcher :-)
Besos to you!
lovely description of Atocha Elena
please can you advise me which platform I need for the AVE to Seville? I need to get from Chamartin via Cercanias
many thanks
Hi there, Stephen!
Cercanias trains are in a separate area from the AVE trains. Once you step down from the Chamartin-Atocha train, you'll go up to the station main hall, and you'll have to make a left towards the corridor that leads to the AVE area --1 minute walk distance! You'll identify the corridor because there are shops and bars and a huge screen on the corridor's access that lists the high speed trains about to leave :-)
The AVE check-in area is at the second floor, and you'll have to actually go through the escalators located in the greenhouse to get there. Like I said, 2 minutes tops from Cercanias, and you get to see the greenhouse!
Good luck and enjoy!
ajbarnett 2 years ago
Wonderful post, Elena. Very interesting. Never been to Madrid, must make an attempt sometime.